Relocate ear bud plug on clamp-on unit to avoid damage when helmet is placed on seat

Comentarios

33 comentarios

  • Marc Woo
    Marc Woo

    We are supposed to change the material to more flexible one. Please contact Sena support and discuss how to resolve it. The improvement is supposed to be reflected within next month. Thanks for your feedback.

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  • Docks4u
    Docks4u

    Instead of making the connector more flexible, I recommend moving it to the side of the clamp unit, just above and parallel to the SENA logo. Then it is out of harm's way altogether.

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  • Brian Wallis
    Brian Wallis

    I have the same problem, the socket part has broken at the base where it goes into the helmet clamp. I've tucked the cable up into the helmet lining for now so it doesn't flex and break the wires.  Will there be a replacement available under warranty? My unit is only 11 months old. 

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  • Marc Woo
    Marc Woo

    Thank you for your feedback. We will do the possibility for changing the socket port from being broken. 

    We will keep you updated later.

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  • Kim Bouchard-Foster
    Kim Bouchard-Foster

    I'll be waiting on an update for this aswell!

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  • Marc Woo
    Marc Woo

    We now improved the clamp kits for ear buds by making the connector more flexible. Please visit the link 

    http://support.senabluetooth.com/tickets/new and submit your requests to replace problematic clamp kits. Thank you for your consideration!

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  • Frank Matas
    Frank Matas

    I recently purchased this new clamp kit as well, the one with the improved "more flexible" connector.  First, I don't understand why this needs to stick outside the base unit, why is it not built into the base unit, avoiding the whole flexible connector issue.  I have littkle confidence thsi will stand up to normal use, but we will see.  While we are at it, I don't believe the fine wires used to fee the boom mic of wired mic are appropriate.  They shoudl be much thicker.

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  • Frank Matas
    Frank Matas

    As I predicted on August 2nd, I departed on a 7 day ride on August 4th, and by the end of the first day, one speaker wire had broken inside the flexible part of the "flexible" connector.  My only choice to avoid further damage was to wrap teh entire connector with ALOt of electrical tape, essentially making it a rigid post.  Sure enough, by Day 2, the second wire broke. I had to order a replacement base unit from Revzilla, and have it overnighted to my next hotel (thank you Revzilla) but not happy about paying $60 in shipping for a $30 item.

    Sena needs to change this design.  You already have the audio input jack built into the base unit.  Why not position the earbud jack in  the same manner?  The flexible patch cord you provide that connects the base unit to the ear buds is more than sufficient to avoid any stress on the jack.

    My solution:  I positioned the flexible connector "upwards" as it appears to bend that way naturally, then pinned it to the base unit by strapping it to the base unit with a couple of wraps of electrical tape.  It does not budge now,  and I had ZERO issues on the remaining 5 days of my trip.  The only issue you may have is that the SMH10 unit will fit quite tightly, so make sure when you mount it, the clip is fully secured.




    IMG-20120813-00098.jpg
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  • Lhoytt
    Lhoytt

    I too have the ear bud clamp base and after one ride my left speaker cut out on me and I found the flexible fitting was broken between the head of the female fitting and the flexible part. Revzilla is sending me a new one (thank you Revzilla, you guys are awesome) but I am worried that the same thing will happen again. 

    I saw Frank Matas's post and photo above, but am having a hard time seeing exactly where the tape goes and how he secured the jack. I would like to do the same thing with my replacement unit when it arrives.

    Anyone else have a permanent solution, like a small splint crazy-glued to the clamp unit? I am all ears!

     

    Thank you.

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  • Frank Matas
    Frank Matas

    Here is a better photo of the solution to the "impending" failure of this design.  So far, after a month or riding I have had no issues.  Why the small velcor patch you ask?  Well, if you notice when you place your lid on a flat surface, the base unit of the SENA is the primary support.

    Position the "dingle" upward, alongside the base unit, wrap with a couple of strands of electrical tape, remount your base unit to your helmet, attach the flexible earbud cord that came with the kit, then install the SENA BT unit.  The clamp is going to be ALOT harder to "click",  But once on it isn't going anywhere.  I recharge my SENA while its still on the helmet not wanting to risk wearing the connections or clamp.

    Good system, poorly thought out design.  I woudl change quite a few things about it actually.




    DSC_0002 (Small).JPG
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  • Lhoytt
    Lhoytt

    Frank:

    Are you positioning the flexible connector right up against the body of the clamp setup? I still don't understand what you are doing with the Velcro.

    What do you think about putting a small triangular wedge between the unit and the flexible cord with the female input for the ear buds? Here are a couple photos of mine after one ride. I am guessing that you ran into the same thing.

    I love the unit and its features, I just think the ear bud connector is a weakness in the system and is a design fault. They should provide a female connection in the clamp unit, just like the one they have for the MP3 input. That would not be subject to movement and damage. 




    Sena earbud1 small.jpg
    Sena earbud2 small.jpg
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  • Frank Matas
    Frank Matas

    Yes,  Position the flexible connector right up against the body of the clamp (see my pic in previous post).  The Velcro has nothing to do with it, its just something I added to prevent any damage to the clamp when you put your helmet down.

     

    Agree with your design recomendation to do away with the weak flexible connector and just have the female jack part of the clamp unit exactly as they have done for the MP3 input jack.

    Does SENA do any realy world testing on these systems?  Here in Vancouver, BC I know of quite a few customers that are as disappointed as I am in this particular aspect of the design.

    As this thread has been marked as "DONE" by SENA, I don't think our comments are contributing much any more.  Revzilla provided me with a refund, so at least I am not out of pocket.

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  • Stuartv
    Stuartv

    I got a new helmet recently, so I just got a new A0304 clamp kit. To my surprise, the plug-in for my earbuds is very different than on my older one. The female socket is now attached to the base via a flexible strain relief. I don't think it's very likely to ever break off now.

     

    Here are some pics of what I got:

     

    <a href="http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/stuartv/Sena%20SMH10/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG0051.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/stuartv/Sena%20SMH10/IMAG0051.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App"></a>

    <a href="http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/stuartv/Sena%20SMH10/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG0052.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/stuartv/Sena%20SMH10/IMAG0052.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App"></a>

     

    What I would really like to know is, what is this new piece that came with the kit?

     

    <a href="http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/stuartv/Sena%20SMH10/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG0053.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/stuartv/Sena%20SMH10/IMAG0053.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App"></a>

     

    <a href="http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/stuartv/Sena%20SMH10/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG0055.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/stuartv/Sena%20SMH10/IMAG0055.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App"></a>

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  • Stuartv
    Stuartv

    Bummer. Too bad this forum software won't let me edit my comment to fix those image links.

     

    Anyway... What is that little plastic piece with the four "fingers" for? It's *almost* the right size to hold the non-boom mic, but not quite. It's just a little too big.

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  • Stuartv
    Stuartv

    Double bummer. I didn't really read the posts above and look at the pictures before my post. I thought this was the thread about the old 304 clamp kit. Sorry.

     

    I second (third? 45th?) the request to change the clamp kit so it has one female jack only - for plugging earbuds into - and no Aux In jack. And speakers, like the A0301 unit, that are active whenever the Earbud jack has nothing plugged into it.

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  • Marc Woo
    Marc Woo

    @Stuartv: The little plastic is Microphone Cap. The microphone cap may be useful to reduce incoming wind noise by moving the wind away from the microphone and provide clearer voice audio sound. You may refer to "SMH10 Quick Note" included in the main package as attached on this post. It would be helpful on how to install the Microphone Cap on your microphone of SMH-A0304.

    And SMH-A0304 has been changed as earbud female port to flexible material. But there should be a AUX port covered by a cap. If you can not find the one. Please let us know. Thank you.




    20120126_SMH10_QSG.pdf
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  • Stuartv
    Stuartv
    Thank you. And after installing the microphone cap, should I put the foam wind sock back on, too?
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  • Marc Woo
    Marc Woo

    Yes, it is needed to put it on the mic. Thank you.

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  • michael andrews
    michael andrews

    My new one has died already as the connection has broken through after only 100 kilometres of riding. Piss poor design.Needs a solid connection.

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  • RBEmerson
    RBEmerson

    Agreed - any connector that can stick out and flop around is, sooner or later, doomed to failure. The hack with taping the connector in place is a better interim solution.

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  • John Katsoudas
    John Katsoudas

    I agree that the current "Improved" ear bud clamp is not an improvement.  My original design clamp broke and I replaced it with a new design clamp.  Within a few months the plastic at the flexible joint had broken.  I RMA'd the clamp and got a replacement.  I'm very happy with Sena's customer service, but the design is terrible.  I've strengthened the flex joint on the replacement clamp with Sugru, which makes it more like the original clamp now, but with a little bit of flex to it.  I also don't understand why the headset plug needs to be sticking out at all.  It should be flush with the body of the clamp.  Sena - please fix this.  You have an otherwise fantastic product.

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  • Trevor Kidd
    Trevor Kidd

    Just got one of these yesterday, and it broke within the first 5 minutes.  guess I had my headphone cable tucked too tight into my jacket, turned my head to make a lane change and the plastic snapped, and the wires inside were pulled out, completely disabling my headphones.  I hope that Sena can get a replacement to me quickly as I'm leaving for a weekend ride on Friday.




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  • Serafino Sini
    Serafino Sini

    Ordered new smh a0303 helmet clamp kit for my open face helmet:  THANK YOU! you have done a good job fixing the ridged headphone plug.  My old one broke only after 6 rides (long rides) Keep up the good work!

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  • Lhoytt
    Lhoytt

    Mine broke almost immediately as well. Sena sent out a new one promptly and I taped it into position to prevent its movement and another break. If they have fixed it finally, can someone post the fixed version?  I agree with others that have said they should just have a single female connection and dispense with the aux input. At least the aux input is rigid and not susceptible to breakage.

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  • Xorro
    Xorro

    I've had the clamp 2 years and 2 month, so it's now out of warranty. The 'flexible' headphone jack has now broken, so I only get sound to one ear.

    Has anyone come up with a nice way to repair it? I can see that the wires in the flexible part are fractured, I'm considering cutting the casing off and soldering the wires, then probably using a lot of electrical tape afterwards!

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  • RBEmerson
    RBEmerson

    Instead of electrical tape, use paint-on electrical tape. It'll seal everything well enough to be watertight. Electrical tape? Not so much...

    If you're going to solder the wires, think about adding enough wire to put the jack somewhere else, to avoid the problem happening again. You'll probably have to go to Mouser Electronics or Digi-Key to buy the jack. Or try Radio Shack online. Gluing anything to the base is basically a waste of time. I've tried Cyanoacrylate (Superglue, etc.) without success. Maybe a dab of silicon will work. Do not use silicon to coat the solder joints!! If you have to go back in to correct a solder joint, you will never get rid of all of the silicon. DAMHIK :(

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  • Trevor Kidd
    Trevor Kidd

    I've taken mine apart and soldered a new flexible lead and Jack in to the base. It hangs out of the base by an inch or so. The rubber pad on the back peels off to reveal 4 small Philips screws, and the cap over the front part where the boom mic comes out on those versions just pulls off then you should be able to get in to it. You'll need a very fine tip on your soldering iron as there isn't much room in there.

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  • Xorro
    Xorro

    Thanks both, I'm in the UK so don't have access to the places you mention RBEmerson, but I'm sure I can get a jack from Maplins or similar.

    Trevor, I hadn't thought of trying to get into the mount to replace the jack, the one I have has the wired mic, rather than the boom, but I assume it will come apart in the same way.

    I don't suppose you have a picture of your mount with the new jack?

    I don't know why Sena didn't do away with the flexible part and just integrate the jack into the mount.

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  • Trevor Kidd
    Trevor Kidd

    I don't have a photo right this second, but I'll try to put one up later. Mine is the wired mic as well, but there's a cap on the front part that should just come off.

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  • Trevor Kidd
    Trevor Kidd

    And I believe they have integrated the jack on the mount on new models which may solve the problem we have, but could introduce a myriad of other issues as well. Broken Jacks are even harder to replace when soldered to a board because now you need the exact part. Broken headphone plugs, etc.

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